Sefuku-ji (施福寺) – Temple at the End of the Sutra

Sefuku-ji, formally known as Makinosan Makinodera, is a Tendai sect temple in the mountains of Izumi, Osaka Prefecture. Nestled deep in the Katsuragi mountain range, it has long been a center for mountain ascetic practice and esoteric Buddhist devotion. Uniquely among Saigoku temples, the central figure here is not Kannon but Miroku (Maitreya), the Buddha of the Future, flanked by Senjū Kannon and Monju Bosatsu. The temple is also linked to Kōbō Daishi, who was ordained here in 806 before departing for China to study esoteric Buddhism.

Things to See at Sefuku-ji

Benten Shrine

At the base of the approach stands a shrine dedicated to Benten, goddess muse of the arts and protector of performers, writers, and musicians. Nearby is a small shrine to her esoteric form as a white snake. This area is also used by shugenja (mountain ascetics) for waterfall purification rituals dedicated to Fudō Myōō, the King of Light.

Sanmon

The main gate marks the start of the steep ascent, signaling the sacred nature of the mountain. Visitors often tie small straw sandals to the fence posts of the Kongōrikishi guardian statues, offering their own climbing effort for the relief of all beings.

Along the Path

Small mountain springs with cups or ladles invite travelers to drink the cool, clean water, said to have healing properties. The slopes are rich in wild plants, attracting those seeking rare flowers and medicinal herbs. A bronze image of Kannon near the entry reminds climbers that their ascent is an offering of compassion. Many wayside shrines honor Kannon and Jizō of the Water Babies, who protect unborn children and travelers alike.

Dainichidō

A thatched-roof shrine dedicated to Dainichi Nyōrai, the Great Sun Buddha of esoteric Shingon Buddhism. The roof itself is a miniature ecosystem of moss, vines, and ferns.

Aizendō

Near the top, this thatched-roof shrine is dedicated to Aizen Myōō, the bodhisattva of passion. A bronze statue of Kōbō Daishi dressed as a pilgrim stands nearby, commemorating his years of ascetic practice in these mountains.

Kamidō

A small bark-shingled shrine enshrining a lock of Kōbō Daishi’s hair, said to have been taken during his tonsuring ceremony in 806.

Hondō

Rebuilt in 1850 after a devastating fire, the main hall features an unusual copper-tiled roof that gives it a Chinese-style appearance. Inside are Miroku, Senjū Kannon, and Monju Bosatsu, as well as the Batō Kannon visible from behind the hall.

Miniature Pilgrimage

A hall enshrining all 33 Kannon images of the Saigoku Pilgrimage, allowing those unable to travel the entire route to gain the same merit through prayer.

Bronze Horse

A statue recalls the legend of Emperor Kazan, who was guided to the temple by the sound of a galloping horse – believed to be Batō Kannon in manifestation.

Legends of Sefuku-ji

Gyōman Shōnin and the Healing of the Emperor

Founded by the ascetic monk Gyōman Shōnin during Emperor Kimmei’s reign (539–571), the temple began as a hermitage. Summoned to cure the Emperor, Gyōman initially refused, declaring his independence from worldly power. He is said to have flown into the sky to avoid the imperial summons, only descending when approached with courtesy. His prayers restored the Emperor’s health, and in gratitude the Emperor built a temple on Mt Makino, enshrining an image of Miroku.

Emperor Kazan and the Guiding Horse

Traveling from Kokawadera, the retired Emperor Kazan became lost in the valleys. Hearing a galloping horse, he followed the sound to the temple, attributing his rescue to Batō Kannon. He commissioned a statue of the Horse-headed Kannon, believed to be the one that survived the 1845 fire.

Hōkai Shōnin’s Vision

In 771, the monk Hōkai Shōnin saw Senjū Kannon appear in a purple cloud over Sendai Bay. Inspired, he carved the image now enshrined at Sefuku-ji. Legends also tell of his unusual connection to the imperial court through a fantastical tale involving a deer, a miraculous birth, and the rise of Buddhism.

Principal Images of Worship

• Miroku Bosatsu (Maitreya) – Central figure of veneration.
• Senjū Kannon – Carved in the 19th century after a fire, displayed each year on May 15.
• Monju Bosatsu – Flanking Miroku alongside Senjū Kannon.
• Batō Kannon – Carved in the Momoyama era, the only image to survive the 1845 fire.
• Jūichimen Sanjū Kannon – Bronze image greeting visitors at the top of the final stairway.
• Shakuson (Shakyamuni Buddha) – Image of the historical Buddha, rare in esoteric mountain temples.

Goeika of Sefuku-ji

Mi yama ji ya
Hibara matsubara
Wake yukeba
Makinoodera ni
Komazo isameru

Deep mountain passes
Through cypress and pine forests
If you can make it
To Makinoodera
Like the pony
Your spirits will be lifted

Many thanks to author and friend Cate Kodo Juno. Cate is a Buddhist priest ordained in the Shingon Buddhist tradition of Japan. She is also a "sendatsu" (先達), or official pilgrimage guide, of the Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.